Op-Ed: What kind of Black person doesn’t eat soul food?

Susan S. Johnson

Soul food is famously revered for pork and barbecue, for savory side dishes cooked in lard. I am a Black man who grew up loving my mother’s cornbread dressing and my aunt’s macaroni and cheese. Then I became a vegan. At first I wondered, if I did not eat soul food as I had historically conceptualized it, what kind of Black person would I be?

Cultural identities are baked into culinary identities. This is especially true for people of color: What you eat or don’t eat speaks volumes about where you belong. The term “soul food” can be traced back

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